Even without fish, residential decorative ponds require regular care to remain healthy and attractive. In this section, we’ll consider some common problems pond owners face and some ideas about how to deal with them. We’ll also talk about seasonal maintenance chores to keep your pond in top form.
Controlling Pond Pests with Nature!
Algae Control with Aquatic Plants
Algae growth is a common issue in all kinds of ponds, especially for man-made ponds that aren’t fully connected to a natural ecosystem. To understand how to successfully manage algae in your pond, it’s important to understand that there are many, many types of algae. Planktonic algae are microscopic and actually have a valuable role to play in your pond’s ecosystem, but if it gets out of control, your pond’s water will appear green and soupy. String algae looks like long strands of green hair that floats on the surface of the pond or attaches to rocks. Given the right conditions, it can spread quickly, forming thick floating mats or adhering to rocks.
If you’ve got algae overgrowth in your pond, start by removing whatever clumps you can reach. A rake, a net, or your hands will work just fine. Planktonic algae are too small to separate out, so consider changing some of your pond water to get a head start on clearing it up.
Algae thrives in warm temperatures where there are plenty of nutrients and sunlight. The best way to handle the threat of algae in a fish-free planted pond is to keep it from ever getting started. If you’ve already missed that target, never fear. You can’t do much about sunlight without damaging your other plants, but you can definitely keep nutrient levels under control with strategic use of plants.
If your pond is deep enough (16” or more), add some floating plants like lilies and lotuses, that will shade your pond. By blocking the sunlight, they’ll help limit the growth of algae, but your real target is the availability of nutrients. Aquatic plants that grow completely underwater (submerged) draw their nutrients directly from the water through their leaves, rather than from the soil, so they’re a great help with controlling nutrient levels.
Of course, it’s better to fix the source of the problem than to simply treat the symptoms, so if algae is a problem in your pond, consider how excess nutrients are getting into your pond in the first place. Grass clippings, leaves, fertilizer and other organic debris that ends up in your pond will decay over time and release nutrients. Take note during the next heavy rain - is runoff getting into your pond? Surface runoff is notorious for carrying nutrients and contaminants, so you might investigate strategies for redirecting surface runoff away from your pond.
Mosquito Prevention in Decorative Ponds
Mosquitoes are notorious for turning serene ponds into breeding grounds and swarming visitors with clouds of hungry females. Did you know that a well-balanced pond ecosystem can naturally deter these pests? In fact, string algae provides a great environment for young larval mosquitoes, so practicing effective algae control will actually make your pond less attractive for egg laying.
Dragonflies and frogs are natural predators of mosquitoes and happily feed on mosquito larvae in the pond. You can attract these useful allies by including their favorite plants, including native marsh marigolds and blue flag iris for dragonflies and water lilies and cattails for frogs. Consider setting up a few bat boxes or even a purple martin condo!
If you’re still battling mosquitoes, there’s a chance that they’re breeding elsewhere on your property. Look around and eliminate standing water wherever you find it: abandoned buckets and planters, old tires, or even drip saucers for your potted plants. Clean those drip saucers and birdbaths weekly and store or dispose of the other culprits.
Finally, mosquitoes don’t appreciate moving water, so adding an aerator or a pump to keep water moving will keep them from laying eggs there. Keep in mind that some pond plants also don’t appreciate moving water, so consider your plants’ needs before jumping at this solution.
Winterizing a Decorative Pond
Putting your pond to bed for winter doesn’t need to be an arduous process., but it’s an essential task to ensure a healthy pond through the colder months. As fall ends, A long-handled pond net makes an easy job of scooping the debris from the bottom of the pond. If you leave the debris on the bottom of the pond, it will decay over the winter, and you’ll experience a bigger mess to face in the spring
Hardy marginal plants should be trimmed to just above the water line and left in place. Remove leaves of hardy water lilies only after they’ve died back and turned brown. After that, move lilies in their pots to the deepest part of the pond (at least 2 feet) for the winter.
Tropical or tender annual pond plants should be mulched or discarded. Tender perennials can be allowed to die back before moving them into a sheltered area for the winter. Remember that pond plants live in the water, even in wintertime!
Pond Spring Cleaning Checklist
Spring is the time when nature is waking up and stretching in preparation for a new year, and it’s the ideal time to rejuvenate your pond after winter dormancy. Begin by removing any accumulated debris at the bottom of the pond, including dead leaves and algae. Some pond owners like to get deep into the muck and scrub their pond liner but think twice before you plan a full-scale attack: the liner, gravel, and any river rocks or stones in your pond all play host to critical parts of your pond’s ecosystem, especially the nutrient cycle. This ecosystem is complex and can’t be replaced with a few doses of chemicals, so do whatever you can to keep it intact.
Next, check your pond plants for winter damage and prune where necessary, removing any remaining dead foliage to allow new growth. This is also an ideal time to divide and replant water lilies, lotuses, marsh plants. Once the water temperature has reached 50ºF and all danger of frost is past, it’s time to add new floating and submerged plants. This will help you get a leg up on nutrient control before algae even has a chance to get started. Once the weather is warm enough, add this year’s selection of tropical and tender annual plants.
After a long winter, you may have to top off your pond a bit. If so, you could use rainwater or tap water, but be sure to let it sit for a day or two to allow chemicals like chlorine to disperse. When you’re ready to add it to the pond, instead of just dumping it in over your plants, use a small hose to direct it to the bottom of the pond. This will help prevent salts and minerals from building up in your pots.
In the end, maintaining a residential decorative pond requires a blend of regular care and an understanding of the nuances of its miniature ecosystem. By carefully controlling algae growth, managing nutrient levels, and appropriately preparing for seasonal changes, you can ensure your pond remains a vibrant and enjoyable part of your home landscape year-round. Of course, remember that every region and every pond is unique, so don’t be concerned about adjusting your routines based on your specific environment and local climate.
